What to Look For and How to Drink it – Robb Report

Memorizing the names of the crus is a handy start—Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly—but you’d be better off asking your wine shop about what crus are available from one of the top producers. Marcel Lapierre, Jean-Paul Thévenet, Jean Foillard, George Descombes and Guy Breton are the frequently cited A-teams that rarely make a false move. A hallmark of these great vineyards is the soil, referred to regionally as lardon: In a cross-section you’ll see layers of iron oxide with granite and silica, looking like a slab of fatty bacon.

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